Parambikulam - Nature lovers’ paradise

(From our Visit in October 2016)

How about living on a tree with basic amenities on the banks of a calm and serene lake amid deafening silence broken only with the roar of an elephant, call of a Malabar Langur or croaking of toads from down under?

Stress and strain of driving hundreds of kilometers on the winding roads of Western Ghats with numerous hair-pin bends dissipates within minutes as you enter the pristine Tiger Reserve of Parambikulam in Pallakkad district of Kerala. Not a dried leaf on the ground is disturbed by human beings.
With no mobile connectivity, life looks much more peaceful and you do not require a professional audio recording device to capture the scream of a peacock or alarm call of spotted
deer that roam around your ‘Tree top Hut’. Chirping of numerous birds on tall teak trees and bamboo tree-grass surrounding the water body seem to be providing right background score for nature’s song of silence.

A journey on a bamboo raft on the blue waters of Parambikulam Reservoir on Parambiyaar river provides you a sneak peek into the flora and fauna of the protected national park with an occasional gaur or elephant coming to its banks at far-end for water. Unlike its ilk, Parambikulam is not commercialized and the food prepared by the aborigines with fresh pond fish and locally grown veggies give you a different experience.

Tamil or Malayalam-speaking tribals working as forest guards accompany you on your 3-hour safari into the jungle. You could go in your own vehicle or take the Forest Department’s rickety
van. Kannimara – the 460-year- old teak tree revered as God by the locals is awe inspiring.

Early morning venture into the forest gave us a chance to watch peacocks fending themselves from attack of pack of wolves. Barking deers, wild boars, and Nilagiri Langoors were there in
large numbers. 

With only 27 tigers remaining (as 2016 census) in 277 sq.km. of core area,
sighting a big cat is a luck, says Murugan, our guide for two days in the forest. He finds them only once in a week.

We booked out stay with the forest department calling over phone Nos. 9442201690; or 9442201691. Forest Development Agency sells some handicrafts made by the locals with locally
available material and probably you could buy a hat/cap or T-Shirt with a tiger’s picture to remember the stay.

A romantic place to visit and it could get adventurous if a group books cottages on an island in the Parambikulam reservoir.

Zen of the roads

There is nothing quite so zen and perfect as hitting the road with just you and your life

partner in your dream car.

Feeble roar of engine immersed in melodies of yesteryear, feel of leather, burning of rubber on

a black serpentine boulevard or a highway embellished in a green landscape for miles together

set the right ambiance for a fortnight-long journey through Western Ghats in the second half of

October.

* Covering distances, tasting delicacies, meeting people, knowing culture, made me humble;

* Flowing rivers, dusty roads, chirping birds, flora and fauna, enjoying nature, turned me serene;

* Exploring places, taking surprises, facing challenges, shaped me into a stronger soul;

Exhaustion of months of long working hours in front of the blue electronic screens of computers

in office vanished in hours as we set out on a 3,500 – km road trip from Hyderabad to

Kanyakumari and back through lush green tracts of Western Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala.

Once out of the concrete jungle, the journey in Honda Amaze (S) with 1.5 L i-DTEC engine

under the hood was nothing short of amazing on Asian Highway 43 – NH 44 (Old NH 7). The

arid regions of Southern Telangana and Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh presented unique

rock formations that spread from Kurnool, Yaganti, Dhone, Gooty and Bellary up to Hampi.

Modern windmills dot the rocky edifice of mountains and up to the horizon in the ‘Rayalaseema’

and oasis of greenery provides the visual relief once you cross Kurnool and travel through

Anantapur. Vast tracts of yellow carpet of sunflower fields give a unique touch to the natural

landscape. Along the country’s longest National Highway (from Srinagar to Kanyakumari) and

away from home, options were innumerable for satisfying the food pallet, that suit everyone’s

pocket.

Thanks to the mobile navigation apps like ZWays and Google Maps, you are not only on the

right track, but can narrow down your choices of much-needed breaks from continuous driving

for a cup of hot coffee, tea or a bite on some healthy snacks.

Of wilderness, native culture and adventure

Driving on meandering narrow roads in the Western Ghats and reserve forests is a different ball

game compared to the smooth sailing on the broad carriageways of National Highways in the

plains. While the greenery of South Western Karnataka in Nagarhole National Park and

Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary in north Kerala forests was bewitching, a little carelessness on the

narrow roads could land you in a deep trouble.

Early winter morning fog greeted us on Bengaluru - Mysuru Highway. Crossing the colourful

streets of Chennapatna was a joy with small shops displaying wooden toys of all varieties. The

Wooden Rocking Horses in all sizes stacked all along the road brought back the childhood

memories.

Coffee plantations dot the roadside as we proceed from Hunsur to Kutta, a small town in

Kodagu district of Karnataka, just 2 k.m. from the entry gate of Nagarhole National Park.

Elephants and spotted deer greeted us from the roadside while passing through the 23-k.m.

road through the protected zone for the wild animals.

In the midst of a 30-acre coffee plantation owned by a Kodava family from the Coorg, our two-

day home stay in a typical tiled bungalow built about half a century ago, was a learning

experience. Understanding the culture of Kodavas or Coorgis was a fun with hosts Shyam and

Javin Cariappa was a pleasure.

Their way of praying river Kaveri, dressing for special occasions or the unique culinary

preparations like Neer Dosa, for breakfast and curry with butter beans and ganike suppu (in

Kannada) leaves from their backyard or kakya toppu (in Coorgi language) opened our eyes to a

new world. Ganike Soppu leaves are used as a good remedy for cold, cough, mouth ulcer and

stomach related problems, Jasvin tells us. Rice roti looking like a normal wheat flour roti, was

another preparation that we had never come across.

Shyam tells us how elephants had started coming into their coffee plantations (Robusta variety)

as density of forests was coming down. We could hear the roar of the elephants at night from a

distance. A safari into Nagarhole wildlife sanctuary resulted in the sighting of only some small

animals, but the tigers were nowhere to be seen.

A visit to Irupu waterfalls and then whitewater rafting was an adventure thoroughly enjoyed,

which we had not planned for. Coorg White Water Rafting in Kithu-Kakkatu River also known as

upper Barapole has the right gradient and water turbulence for a great adventure. Water levels

were low as the Monsoon had just ended, but the experience of paddling and rafting in Orange

and black inflatable boats for two hours charged up our spirits. The joy of jumping into river

without fear of getting drowned was something even youngsters enjoyed as you have a guide

and safety gear with you. Deepak (9845021605) made all arrangements.

The numerous hair-pin bends on our way to Coonoor via Sultan Bathery through Wayanad and

Mudumalai Reserve Forests gave us a thrilling experience, though keeping a keen eye on

oncoming heavy vehicles on the road was a must for a safe journey. Countless view-points,

streams and variety of trees and large tracts of Tea Plantations never made us tired.

Stay at the Singara Estate Tea Plantation (Tea Nest) on Coonoor-Kotagiri road was out of this

world experience. A deep valley overlooking the fog-covered peaks of Nilgiris and well-laid out

garden with bunch of good books in the adjoining room in a shelf instigates you to perpetually

settle at the place.

On the last leg of journey through Western Ghats from Coonoor to Mettupalayam via Kotagiri

and from Parambikulam to Kochi via Valparai in the Anamalai Reserve Forest driving skills are

put to test with close to 100 hair-pin bends challenging you. From Pollachi in Tamil Nadu to

Kochi we climbed 1,100 meters and drove down to Athirappilly Waterfalls near Ernakulam.

Adventure biking regulars on the 60-km Ghat Road section kept our company crisscrossing

each other at the 41 sharp bends. Herds of elephants crossed the road at one place, but fresh

dung was visible at many places all along the route.

The Tamil Nadu and Kerala Forest Departments need to be congratulated for stringently

implementing ban on plastics/pet bottles. You need to declare what you are carrying into the

forest and produce them while you come out in Kerala – this ensures none litters the pristine

eco zone. Bahubali movie shot at Athirappilly has added to its tourist attraction quotient.

Coastal road in Kerala from Ernakulam to Tiruvananthapuram via Alleppey and to Kanyakumari

was narrow compared to other National Highways, but in a good condition passing through

green countryside dotted with posh houses.

From Kanyakumari journey back to Hyderabad via Tirunelveli, Madurai, Salem, and Bengaluru

on NH 44 (old NH7) it was through some arid regions of Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh.

Sitting at home is sin, Hitting road is Zen